Tuesday 30 May 2017

Days 12 & 13: The nation's capital!



Special "Canadian flag" tulip planted all over Ottawa to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Confederation

Parliament Buildings.
You can watch Parliament in session if you go early in the morning and line up for tickets.
I have never felt an urge to do so, in any of the countries of which I am a citizen

Statue depicting NellieMcClung holding aloft the newspaper with the headline "Women are Persons!"
following the passing of the Persons Act in the Canadian Parliament in 1929 

Rideau canal & locks. Built for defensive purposes during the war of 1812, 
the 202 km long canal links the Ottawa River with Lake Ontario

Plenty to see in Ottawa, even if the weather is changeable! As it is, at the moment. I started out at the National Gallery, a stone and glass structure which is an attraction in its own right - and also contains lots of great art. Unfortunately the Canadian Art section was closed for renovations, so I didn't get to see any of the Group of Seven etc. for which the museum is famous, but it also has a vast collection of international art (including a Simone Martini and a few Canaletto views of Venice to make me feel homesick) and the largest collection of Inuit art in any public museum.


The National Gallery

I believe I've seen this gal before somewhere (hanging out at the Tate, perhaps?)

This Inuit sculpture has a built-in QR code (hand painted on bone)
It links to a you-tube video of the artist telling the story that inspired the sculpture

NOT the Natural History museum... these whale skeletons are made out of plastic lawn chairs!

Plenty of school groups in the National Gallery today

I had been to the National Gallery the last time I was in Ottawa - which was long enough ago that there was a protest against apartheid on Parliament Hill! - but I had never been to the Museum of Canadian History, which opened the year after I was last in Ottawa. In this case too, the building itself is an attraction, across the Ottawa River in Hull, Quebec. Just walk over the bridge (more than a hundred years old) and you are in another province!






I guess this is what they call the Canadian Shield? And perhaps it inspired the museum's architecture?

Here too, one of the major halls was closed for renovations, due to open in July. But there is plenty to see without it. The lower level is entirely dedicated to the first peoples of Canada, with the majority of space dedicated to northwest coast cultures. I found the totem poles a bit out of place here, and I would have liked to learn more about the peoples of eastern Canada, but I guess not everyone has been to BC, or is going there from here, and it's only fair that they should be able to see a few good poles and house fronts too! Besides, the northwest coast peoples definitely had the most impressive and spectacular material culture - which is what can be put in museums. Though I did also experience some intangible culture too, watching some very good short animated videos about creation stories from various cultures, in a comfortable little movie theatre - just the thing when museum fatigue begins to set in!


The Great Hall, getting set up for some special dinner under the totem poles

Northwest coast totems & house fronts looking somewhat out of place in the Great Hall

A plaster cast of the Bill Reid sculpture "The Spirit of Haida Gwaii"
The original is in the airport in Vancouver and so will probably be the last thing I see on my trip to Canada!

Last but not least, when in Ottawa, be sure to stay at the Ottawa Jail Hostel - an attraction in itself. Surely one of the world's most interesting hostels, it is right next door to the Novotel, costs a fraction of the price, and has WAY more character. Maybe even too much character! Sleeping in a jail cell is kind of freaky, especially if you have been on the daily jail tour and know that: prisoners were kept in windowless, unheated (!) cells for 23 hours and 45 minutes of every day. 3 men were officially executed in public hangings; 7 more were "unofficially" hanged in the stairwell, and their bodies made dents in the floor when they dropped to the bottom, which cannot be removed due to their historical significance. 150 more bodies were discovered under the pavement in the hostel/jail courtyard - of people who died of disease, neglect, cold or torture. And there are quite likely just as many more under the hostel parking lot, which has not been excavated! Constructed in 1862, the building served as a jail right up to 1973, when it was closed due to the inhumane conditions; the hostel opened in the building only six months later.

Sweet dreams!



The gallows. The doors would be opened and people would gather on Sandy Hill for public hangings, one of the few sources of entertainment in colonial Ottawa

Now the breakfast area, the ground floor was originally the debtors' prison

On a cheerier note: the hostel kitchen

I wouldn't dare disobey the rules in THIS hostel!!! We saw the solitary confinement cells, and they were NOT nice.

Sunday 28 May 2017

Days 10 and 11: Montréal et ses 375 printemps

Montréal seen from the clock tower
Busy weekend exploring the city of Montréal with my hostess, Magali. After a long, cold winter and a rainy spring, the city and its inhabitants burst into bloom with the arrival of the first signs of summer! Everybody seems to be out on the street enjoying the sunshine. They have even built an artificial beach in the harbour, just for sunbathing (you can't swim there)!


In summer, Montréal seems like a city dedicated entirely to having fun! The first thing you see coming into the city over Jacques Cartier Bridge is the roller coasters and assorted fairground rides on Saint-Helene island. The old port has a zipline circuit and a big circus tent – home to Cirque du Soleil. Of course I had to catch one of their shows while in town!


Downtown was also bustling with sunseekers and funseekers. Packed bars, people dancing in Jardin Gamelin, and 21 Balançoires in the Quartier des Spectacles: swings that play music when you swing on them. Nearby, in the Gay Village, on a street with coloured balls in all the colours of the rainbow strung over it, are a set of four bicycles that play tracks corresponding to the various instruments in a band when you pedal them; four people need to pedal together to hear the complete band!


The city has whole districts dedicated entirely to fun and games. Besides the Quartier des Spectacles, there's the Expo '67 site, home to the Biosphere, the biggest geodesic dome built by Buckminster Fuller. Originally the American pavilion at Expo '67, it was closed in with acrylic panels, which caught fire during restoration of the structure and melted away - so now only the frame is left. Inside the dome is a museum all about the environment, with lots of flashy and interactive exhibits. 


Then there's the site of the 1976 Olympics, where we explored the Biodome. And the museum district, where the Musée des Beaux Arts has lots of fun contemporary art exhibits. Luckily, admission was free to all the city's museums and attractions this Sunday - which made up for splurging on a Cirque du Soleil ticket!

Vieux Montréal 


The clock tower in the old port


The Olympic stadium
My home over the weekend on a quiet, leafy green street. The outdoor staircases are typical of Montréal
My comfy sofa bed!

Goodbye selfie with Magali! (and mysterious figure hanging out by the metro station)
Budget (two days): 

Entertainment $85
Food $42

Friday 26 May 2017

Day 9: Québec - Montréal (253 km)

Before starting my road trip, I enjoyed a relaxing 24 hours birdwatching and tramping around the forest with my new friends Francine & Justin, who so kindly invited me to take a break at their riverside cottage after a busy week in Québec!






My hosts at their cottage

Working & birdwatching this morning
The birdfeeders outside all the cottage windows attract a colourful variety of hummingbirds, finches, jays and woodpeckers. Plus squirrels and chipmunks scurrying across the deck munching on the seeds that fall to the ground - plenty of entertainment!

Loading up the progmobile one last time!


Then off to Montréal on the 3:00 bus! And I'm finally on the road, heading west!

In Montréal I met up with Magali, my hostess for the weekend. I first met her one year ago when she stayed with Sara in Siena and I was exploring Tuscany on foot, going back to spend the night in Siena every evening. Magali told me that at the end of her travels around Europe last summer, she took a transatlantic liner to come back home - the Queen Mary II. I didn't realise you could still do that! I'll have to look into it for a future trip.

Magali with poutine!
The Montréal metro is still exactly the same as it was last time I was in the city, 30 years ago! And I arrived just in time to derive maximum benefit from the weekend illimité pass: valid from 6 pm on Friday night until 5 am on Monday morning, for only $13.75!

Le metrò

Ma maison! (for the weekend)

Ma chambre! That sofa looks very comfy!

Distance travelled: 253 km

Budget: Orléans Express bus ticket Québec - Montréal $62
Beer & poutine for two: $30
Weekend illimité metro pass: $13.75



Thursday 25 May 2017

Day 8: Québec: Je me souviens!

Spent the morning in the hostel, working on translations. How appropriate that my first translation done "on the road" should be about Jack Kerouac! And the second, done entirely in the youth hostel, a translation about luxury hotels ($1500 per night)! 

In the afternoon, I will be on my way to .... a mystery destination in the Québec countryside with Francine!

I will report back next time I have an internet connection. In the meantime, here are some assorted pictures taken around Québec!


View over Québec from l'Observatoire de la Capitale


Porte Saint-Jean






  




Moisan: oldest grocery store in North America

Smallest house front in North America

Oldest house in North America still standing





Chateau Frontenac